Thursday, April 16th, 2009
Depart: Cay Caulker @ 1200 N 17*44.727 W 088*01.691
Destination: Puerto Morelos N 20*50.800 W 086*52.000 aprox
Distance: 200 miles 30 to 36 hours Heading: 020 just east of north.
Fuel: 3/4 full Water: full EngHrs: 2433
Forecast: ESE wind at 10 - 15 knots Seas: less than 1 meter (3 feet)
Conditions: North of East wind 10 - 12 kts, cloudless sky. Beautiful!
Lee on Jargo is only 200 miles north of us and is pinned down by a SOUTHERLY wind! Here we are held up by a NORTHERLY wind! Crazy. We decide to boogie, and risk getting beat-up, in the hope of catching Lee in Puerto Morelos. jump into boat prep early and are ready to leave before 0700.
Pulled off my Band-Aid and was shocked at the sight! I almost vomited! A white thingy was sticking out of the wound. I squeezed it like a pimple, and a dead larvae slid out! Gross! Totally disgusting! about 1/2 inch long, and 1/8 inch diameter. We immediately ran to the Health Clinic on the island. I informed the doctor of time, condition, medication, I even brought the larvae with me.
He didn't seem at all concerned. Probably sees these worms all the time, crawling out of the local kids. Doc told me to keep up the antibiotics, and sent me home.
Well. . . that gave us a late start. unhooked from the mooring at noon, single reef in the main, and #2 jib - tacked down on the deck like an Americas Cup boat. Battle Trim!
cleared the reef at San Pedro at 1400. Beat hard upwind, offshore, for 10 miles. once I got about one and a half miles off the coast, I settled into a close reach - aprox 030 Wind held steady at 15 - 20 kts from the east 090 or less. Seas 3 to 4 feet. everything wet -
(750mg Levaquin at midnight No more redness, no itch, no oozing. wound finally closed up, but bump under skin remains.)
Friday, April 17th, 2009
Wind increased to a steady 20kts all night, just slightly north of east. SOEL is screaming! 6.5 knots up-wind is unbelievable! Around Chinchorro Bank the current began to push us north about 1/2 knot faster.
At Punta Herrero the current kicked into full gear and pushed us almost 2 knots faster! I consistently saw 8+ knots over ground, on the GPS. steer line on the ARIES windvane jumped the sheave and stuck sometimes before dawn. Daylight brought a tear in the jib. DAMM! re-set the jib on the pennant, which raises the sail up over the lifelines. Hammer on at 8+ knots.
1200 position: N 20*42.827 W 086*56.884 190 miles in 24 hours!
Dat's gotta be a record for only 32 feet of waterline! Daylight savings in Mexico, so we just lost an hour. Today's run is the hardest we have ever pushed our little ship. And she responded well. GPS shows average speed 8.0kts - Max speed 9.6kts The waves around the island of Cozumel were quite remarkable. I shot some video of the wild ride. one wave came over the bow, lifted the dingy about a foot, and washed the windlass handle down the deck. (that handle is a 2 foot long bar of steel - weighs about 5 pounds) Another wave jarred the boat so hard, the door to the head popped open and sprung the hinges. Elizabeth and I took turns sponging water out of the bilge.
Crossed Jargo at the sea buoy! Damn! 4 months - and I missed him by 1 hour.
Arrived: Puerto Morelos - mooring ball N 20*50.823 W 086*52.370 @ 1500 eng hrs: 2434
Saturday, 18th
walk on the beach in Morelos. relax. yesterday worked both of us as hard as the boat. I'm sore and tired - my hands hurt.
We bought a cold Mexican beer and a hot torta from a little side street cafe. . . and a local musician played us a song on his upright harp. he sang loud. . . and even though we didn't understand the words, I could tell it was a sad song.
(750mg Levaquin @ 0700, only small bump remains)
Sunday, April 19th, 2009
Depart: Puerto Morelos @ 0930 N 20*50.855 W 086*52.370
Arrive: Isla Mujeres @ 1345 N 21*13.975 W 086*44.234
Distance: 25 miles Heading: 020 Fuel: 3/4 Water: 1/2 EngHrs: 2435
Forecast: south east wind 10 kts. seas 1 meter.
Conditions: East wind at 20 - 25kts seas 4 - 6 feet.
Hate to leave, but. . . we must get back. Today is a great sail north. lotta wind. some waves sorta big.
As soon as we anchor in the lagoon, K & C from "Sunshine" come over to say "Hi!"
Good to be here again. around friends again.
Monday, 20th
Wind still blowing 25 from the east. Seas over 2 meters.
This morning we (Elizabeth) decided to go into a marina for one day. one day only. to wash the boat and pick-up a few groceries. I squeezed SOEL into the last available slip. Tom gave me a free beer because my boat was the one that pushed Marina Parisio to the 100% full capacity setting. first time ever.
We have not seen rain in 4 months. The old boat is crusty with salt. Everywhere! E and I washed the sails, deck, hull, equipment, sheets & halyards, solar panels, everything!
It rained about 2 hours later . . .
Tuesday, 21st
Wind screaming. Offshore waves ugly.
I woke up a half-a-dozen times with water hitting me in the face. It rained on and off all night. 1st rain in months. terrible nights sleep.
Elizabeth said she "hasn't slept so well in months." that translates into : we stay at the marina another night.
E & I jumped on our bikes and pedaled through town once again. We love this place!
Lunch was 4 Sopes (pollo) and a diet coke (coka light), for $30 pesos. about $2.50 in US dollars.
Lizzy wanted to make a big shopping trip, and I wanted to load up on Mexican beer, so I rented a golfcart for 50 pesos an hour. We stopped at the biggest supermarket on the island, which is about the size of a Buc-ees convince store, and spent $100 on booze and produce.
After un-loading / packing / un-packing the fridge / re-packing fridge . . . I fired up the barbeque pit and burned all the shrimp, half the chicken, 3 ears of corn and both pork tenderloins. I'm gonna weigh 300 pounds before I get into the USA.
Wednesday 22nd
Being tied to a dock has it's advantages. Easy access to bicycles, beer and ice, etc. But, I can't shake the thought of paying $30 per day / about a THOUSAND dollars a month / when I'm not working. We just don't have that kind of money. Elizabeth wins again and we stay tied-up another night.
Winds 25 - 30 from the east. Seas uncomfortable at 6 - 9 feet. Surf's up Dude!
The great thing about not sticking to any plan, is - we met another cool couple! Tom and Jane from Hornblower Too. they live in Crested Butte, Colorado - broke like us - and they work in Colorado in the summer, then come down to warmer climates in the winter. The four of us went bike riding & beer drinkin'.
Didn't take long for Jane to talk Elizabeth into a Colorado trip this summer.
Thursday 23rd
Finally got out of the stinkin'Marina! ran aground in the slip, but, finally powered my way out, and headed over to an old abandoned mooring close to the beach. Wind spinning the wind generator like a blender.
I drove around in the dink till I spotted the mooring, then swam down between the French Angelfish, pulled up the chain, and shackled my line. SOEL is now tugging on a couple-a-thousand pounds of sunk junk.
Incredible sunset, as usual / or, fo dey first time.
Friday 24th
I got a job today! the four letter word - W O R K !
not sure how I'm gonna react to that. Last night Kim called with the name of a guy who has a sick engine. Hopefully a local mechanic will get the job and I can go to the beach.
Elizabeth has been hinting all morning about how she sleeps better at the dock, but I won't bite that hook.
HA! it's a major repair and the Mexicans have it covered - so - I get to go bike ride!
Stop at Quenceria to grab Kim for lunch, and we walk over to another restaurant for a HUGE plate of food. Black beans, rice, salad, and TWO Chile Rellenos. all for 50 pesos. $4 US.
Back to SOEL for an afternoon nap. All this waiting around on weather is making me fat! Wind still above 25 / waves still above my head.
Head into town around 1730 to meet fellow cruisers, shop for souvenirs, and buy cigars. We elect to 'skip' happy hour with the 'rich cruiser' crowd, and dinghy back to SOEL for leftover fried rice and good conversation.
Life is good in Paradise.
Saturday 25th
Weather is still beautiful for beach walking, but bad for small sailboats. 70's at night - 82 for a high during the day. . . but, the winds around the straights of Florida are still 25 - 30 + and wave heights are in the 9 - 12 foot range. No, thank you. I could keep SOEL screaming along, at a speed way above what she was ever designed for, but why? I would probably set another record for the fastest 500 mile passage/ in a 36 foot boat, but, I also may rip a sail, lose my wife, lose the dinghy, and spill my beer in the process. We re-connected with Tom and Jane around 10am and biked around the Island - AGAIN.
All four of us stopped at a restaurant called SanCochos for a big-ass cheeseburger, french fries, and onion rings. Dat wuz speck-tack-yu-lar, dat! Then we slept on the beach the rest of the day.
Wow. Time flies in paradise.
Sunday 26th
The obligatory morning weather check shows a hole between these strong winds ending Tuesday, and a weak cold front next Saturday - that may, or may not, reach the panhandle of Florida. This may be my chance! Out of the SEVEN boats that left last Sunday (one week ago) - Six are still pinned down in the Dry Tortugas (one hasn't been heard from yet)
Instead of checking into Customs and Border Patrol in Key West. . . I've got my eye on just running straight across the Gulf, to Panama City, Florida. Four days. following the Gulf Stream. Sure would be good to be "home".
the "girls' went to the beach this afternoon. I'm packing the boat in anticipation.
As I type, a small boat drives into the anchorage. It's Sunday, right? This guy is by himself. 25 foot boat. No jib to be found anywhere up front. Main sail tied tight under the cover. FOUR different fenders dragging through the water on each side. this guy is so big and so fat, when he walks to the bow - to anchor. . . the outboard motor out back pops out of the water! He throws out a small anchor, no bigger than the one I have for my 8 foot dinghy, and slides sideways about a mile - all through the anchorage - with the outboard motor sputtering out of the water. FOUR times he tries this! Finally he throws the anchor out near a shallow spot, and runs aground. The VHF radio is buzzing about this poor bastard who thinks he has just accomplished something monumental.
It's time for me to get outta here -
Monday 27th
This morning I eavesdropped on a call for "Isla Contoy Information" since we just went in January and saved the waypoints for Lee, I called Music back and met another great couple in the process. Lunch was a Tostone sandwich at the Cuban restaurant, then we swam in the pool / showered with hot water / and took advantage of the Internet connection.
Elizabeth called Customs and Border Protection - spoke to agent "Peterson"
After dark, back aboard SOEL, some disturbing news floats around on the VHF radio. Someone apparently experienced a tragedy. we can't be certain / more info tomorrow.
As we sit out in the cockpit discussing Life and Death, I point out the anchor light of a motor boat that has been anchored in the same spot since we got here in January. . . .
No confirmation. in fact - it almost starts a fight!
less than 200 yards away and Elizabeth can't see it. ouch.
Tuesday 28th
Our worst nightmare is confirmed. Just about dark one of the "live aboards" was ashore working on yet another boat project, we understand his wife suffered a stroke. She was found by some others boaters around 9pm; everyone is very sad. We went over first thing this morning to offer WHATEVER we could. He was understandably devastated.
Os prepared SOEL for sea.
I made one last shopping trip.
We will still try to depart tomorrow - Wed the 29th.
Wednesday, 29th
Rain wakes me up at 0500. After a few last minute preparations. . . we decide to wait one more day. - to let it stop raining! Clear out of the country and grab two diet cokes, two tortas and guacamole at Rene & Renee. $100 pesos, with the tip. about $8 USD! Gotta love Mexico!
Contact Customs and Border Protection - AGAIN - Jerry answers - AGIAN - Officer Davis directs me to "Sun Harbor" (wherever-tha-hell-that-is) for check-in. He reminds me to call upon arrival. 850-785-4688. I'm calling now, at a dollar a minute, from 600 miles away! ! ! !
Bake Brownies and 3 Pizzas for the ride tomorow.
Thursday, April 30th, 2009
Depart: Isla Mujeres @ 1200 noon. N 21*14.896 W 086*44.578
Heading: about 007* North Distance: 550 ? Fuel: still above 2/3rd full
Forecast: 10 - 15 from the east. no rain.
Conditions: Beautiful ! 15 knots out of the east south east. not a cloud. 77 F.
barr: 1000mb steady Water: 3/4 full EngHrs: 2443 (ran engine 2 hours to equalize batteries before trip)
Jane and Tom left about one hour before we did, but, they motored toward the south end of the Island.?.?.? Don't know why. I hoisted the Main / cut loose the mooring / and sailed out of the anchorage, over the bar NORTH of the island and out to sea. - never saw them back on the horizon.
Beautiful sail !!!! Beat up-wind for 12 hours to try an hit the most powerful FLOW of the Gulf Stream. . . . around 086 West.2400 Position: N 22*39.088 W 086*30.621 85 miles in the first 12 hours ! ! !
Web site designed & hosted by Elizabeth Latiolais copyright 2008 at Homestead (TM)
