Monday, March 16th, 2009 Oil Change @ 2410 hours
Depart: Ranguana Cay 1030 N 16*19.870 W 088*09.128
Arrive: Little Water Cay 1530 N 16*26.831 W 088*05.856 2 stops along the way.
Distance: about 8 miles Heading: 027 (northish - around the rocks) Barometer: steady 1000mb
Fuel: 3/4 Water: 1/4 EngHrs: 2409
Forecast: settled trade winds - 15kts from the east - cloudy, 40% chance of rain.
Actual conditions:: North East wind 5 kts in the morning - 10 kts at lunchtime - 5 kts at sundown. Not a cloud!
Finally leave Ranguana. Sail north a little way and stop at Pompion Cay. This island has a VERY small lagoon, surrounded by reef. I drove us in, and we looked around, but did not anchor. A big yellow sign read: Private - No Trespassing. Moved on to Round Cay - anchored and stormed the beach. Some native fishermen have made a "semipermanent" camp on the island. It's a beautiful island, and we ate lunch ashore, but we felt like trespassers walking around the deserted camp. Back to SOEL and we sail on to Lil-Wa-Wa for the night.
Change oil and filter, fuel filter, and clean sea water strainer.
March 17 - 09
Depart: Little Water Cay N 16*26.830 W 088*05.855 1000
Arrive: Placencia N16*30.609 W 088*21.761 1400
Distance: 16 miles Heading: back thata way, around that island.
Forecast: settled trades - 15kts from east. clear sky. no rain.
Conditions: blowing 20-25 from North East all night. Cloudy. few rain showers.
I slept from 2100 till 2300, then was up until 0500 looking around. after the sun came up, I slept until 0800.
Elizabeth made coffee and cooked breakfast. weighed anchor (gettin' heavier) at 1000 and hoisted #2 jib only for a pleasant downwind run to "the Village". Drug a lure the whole way. No fish. I sailed us north of Laughing Bird Cay, then turned south right on top of the ridge where the water depth drops from 30 feet to 200 feet deep. Gotta be fish here, right? another mile down the edge and nothing. not a nibble.
Parked SOEL on the mangroves to avoid the dreaded "roll" and contacted family.
Wed 18
Wake up in Placencia - again - and this time... the anchorage is so peaceful, beautiful flat and calm.
Lizzy and I storm the town for fresh supplies and Internet connections, then grab lunch at "Wendy's" No - not the hamburger chain. We meet up with a few other cruisers (Rodney & Katrina on Angelina) and swap info, stories, lies.
The weather has been so weird. Here in Placencia, it whispers at 0 - 5 from the West at night / 5 outta the North in the morning / then 15 from the east during the day / then back to West at sundown.
Thursday 19th
Belize Immigration laws allow you the enter the country FREE... but it's only for 30 days. I checked in on Feb, 19th. technically, I should have until March 20th. My Visa expired yesterday, the 18th, but the officials don't work on Wednesday - only Thursday - so I get special privilege for being one day late / or early depending on how you count the days. Whatever. why even try to understand it?
The Customs guy pulled the handle off while closing the door. I whipped out my Gerber, found the loose screw in the sand, and by the time I secured the door, we were back in the country for another 30 days.
Lunch was again at "Wendy's", the local watering hole - because they take travelers checks.
After lunch, I run the dinghy back to SOEL, pick-up empty beer bottles to return for a deposit, run back to the dock, then I walk a case of empties, 3/4 of a mile to the store, then 3/4 mile back with a full case, and drive back out to the boat - TWICE! did I mention it's $65BZ / $32.50US per case - for Belikin? It ain't that good a beer!
Friday, March 20th, 2009
Elizabeth piloted SOEL to the fuel dock so we could refill our water tanks. I topped off every container we have, and finally added 10 gallons of diesel fuel. $25. 10 gals / 3 months . . . not bad.
While at the dock, I filled an icechest with ice, E bought some frozen meats, and we made plans for hiking in the mountains tomorrow.
The creep at the Shell station overcharged me for the water, but I didn't catch it till later - after we re-anchored. Someone got on the VHF radio and reported being overcharged for fuel... I calculated how much water we took on, and realized he screwed me for double the going price. Buyer beware!
Fuel: Full Water: Full + 15 gal reserve EngHrs: 2412 Battery condition: those two big solar panels work great! The noisy wind generator has been tied off for three days now - don't need it.
Saturday, 21st A walk in the woods
The rain wakes me at 0300. I pack a backpack, make coffee, wake E-Liz, and we eat some breakfast before heading out to look for the "chicken bus" One hour $5 bus ride to get to the Maya Center. 30 minute $15 taxi ride to the sanctuary, $10 for a day pass. Much cheaper than the $160 we were quoted for a guided tour, and we did it our selves!
I asked the right questions, gathered info, and we decided on a 2km trail called "Tiger Fern" with the promise of a waterfall at the end. The guide at the visitors center said it was a 1 hour hike. I took us almost two and a half!
The perfectly clear, fresh jungle water was painfully cold, but I climbed the waterfall anyway. We walked to a campsite and strung up the hammock then ate lunch. The hike back down was much faster, and we pressed on to explore an old plane crash. No Jaguars spotted this time, but many birds, and the ants were fun.
"Chicken bus" back to the dock at dusk, and a can of beans for dinner. we are both so tired from our big day.
Sunday, 22nd Haircut
Wake up tired and sore from the hike yesterday. Trying to leave today for points farther east. We dinghy over to Angelina and end up visiting till noon, talking about mutual friends. It seems Rodney and Katrina know all the same people we know... or maybe there just ain't that many people cruising out here. Run into town to try and find an Internet connection, but everything is closed. guess we ain't leaving today.
Buy more fresh fruits and veggies, and cellphone air time.
Back aboard SOEL, I decide today is the day. Elizabeth gathers up my 2 year long hair and chops it off at the scalp. we save the whole heavy bundle for "Locks of Love". I am surprisingly fine with it - for now - but, E got teary eyed.
To celebrate, we run over to a little bar overlooking the water for a beer and some barbeque.
Monday, March23rd, 2009
Depart: Placencia N 16*30.609 W 088*21.761 1130
Arrive: South Water Cay N 16*48.957 W 088*05.085 1745
Distance: 25 miles Heading: 041 EngHrs: 2416 Fuel: full Water: full Barr: down 998mb
Forecast: Northeast winds at 15kts, partly cloudy, 75-80*F
Conditions: East at 10 or less, no waves, 75*, perfect!
After some last minute Internet / weather / e-mail stuff, we decide to haul-ass to Lighthouse Reef.
We stored the dink on deck and hoisted sails. E dropped below and made us Shrimp sandwiches for lunch and we got on the phone while we were still in range. Our motto today was: "Lets see where we can sail."
We made it to Blueground Range about 1630 - looked at each other and said "keep moving." Motored up-wind to South Water and anchored before sunset. We are both very pleasantly surprised to be here - on the edge of the reef - ready to shoot out of the pass at first light - and sail over to Long Cay / Lighthouse Reef. We would have never done this two years ago! Experience, huh? We gettin'good at this!
Tuesday, March 23rd, 2009
Depart: South Water Cay N 16*48.964 W 088*05.076 0700
Arrive: Long Cay N 17*12.750 W 087*36.870 1400
Distance: 35 miles Heading: 047 EngHrs: 2420 Pressure: dropping 997 Fuel/Water: Full
Forecast: today - east 15, partly cloudy, 20% chance of rain. tomorrow - 20 to 25 outta da east.
Conditions: wind just slightly south of east (100*) at 8 - 10 kts. perfect! about 1500 - right when we anchor - the wind builds to 25 from east. Perfect!
We get an early start, and I'm on the bow while E drives us out of the pass. I trim sails perfectly, lock the wheel, and SOEL pinches up-wind - all the way - one tack - without using the autopilot. We dragged three different lures again today, some deep, some on the surface, No Fish.
Elizabeth requests to take down sails a mile out from the reef. Denied. I call a dive boat to find out if they have swimmers in the water, because he is near where I want to cross the reef. "No Worries, Mon." he tells me. Elizabeth remembers things differently, and is quite nervous, but I take up my usual position on the bow, and guide us safely over the reef. We anchor near a great snorkel spot and K from "Sunshine" calls on the radio to welcome us! We are both so happy to be here.
Wed, 25th
I can't sleep, awake at 0300. the wind is a steady 20, gusting 25 and the wind generator is cranking!
Fridge is freezing. I try writing - Computer is on. Stereo. iPod. I can't use all the power I'm generating!
After dawn, I try a few boat projects. Elizabeth whips up breakfast while I press out fresh corn tortillas.
First nap of the day at 0930. Lizzy decides to take the leftover tortillas and make chips. They come out so good that I press out another batch and we bag-up a gallon size Ziploc full of chips.
Quick snorkel around the patch in the heat of the afternoon, then over to visit with K & C on "Sunshine" for dinner. (of course that's a code name! the names are changed to protect the guilty)
E and I mixed up a "Chocolate Pudding Cake" to bring over for desert. We had a great visit, but, E was sick all night - and we cant figure out why?
Thursday 26th
Sleep 4 hours last night. Try more writing at 0300. . . no luck.
Jump off for a swim about 1100 and snorkel the "patch" with a little camera my brother gave me years ago. I don't expect the photo's to look like much. Back to SOEL for lunch - hot soup, try to warm-up.
The rest of the afternoon passed with nothing but sitting around in the sun and listening to music.
I Love This Place! Elizabeth kicked out a big pot of Black Beans, and cooked some rice, and we watched "Captain Ron" again.
Friday, 27
Actually slept all night! 8 hours! That hasn't happened in months! Maybe years! I can't remember the last time I got more than 4 hours at a time -
2 snorkel trips today! we spot a "Hawksbill Turtle" on the reef and see a large school of silver fish, with a blue stripe, head-to-tail, over the top.
It took two hours for us to warm-up after the dive, but we filled the time looking through fish books, and identified our school as Bar Jacks. The guide listed the "Bar Jack" as not only edible, but one of the best in the "Jack" family, mature adults in the 16" size, world record 4 pounds 2 ounce, fights like a fish twice its size. Sounds like a hell of a challenge for my little spear gun, and we decide to try one on the next hunting trip.
"Galley Hand" whipped-up some stir fry rice for dinner and and while we were watching "Secondhand Lions" the barometer dropped to 993 and the wind clocked around to just west of south. The anchorage got uncomfortable, but we ain't moving tonight. wait up till midnight - watching.
Saturday 28th
Woke at 0230 to the "rock & roll" that the south wind pushed into the anchorage. back to sleep from 0500 - 0630. decide to move about 1000, but, by the time I reeled in the secondary anchor, the breeze calmed, and I reconsidered. Stay put.
Rigged the sail on the WalkerBay and sailed around a bit. Kim and Elizabeth snorkel the "patch" and spot a "Spanish Lobster". I tried snorkeling around "The Aquarium", but a nurse shark scares me and I quit - head home for a shower.
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Woke to west wind. Os awake since 0300. He is working on stories. The anchorage started getting rolly. I think we had 2 foot chop! Carl dinghied over said, "We are moving," you can follow if you want. "Hiatus" rolled in anchored and it was mass exodus. They followed. We had the waypoints in the computer. We anchored N17*11.499 W087*35.955. Great spot. We snorkled right off boat toward reef. We picked up several sanddollars & attempted 2 sea biscuits but they broke. Several conch, babies mostly. Several without conch, but fish Families live in them. We had two trunkfish follow us for awhile. Then I spotted something strange. We both studied it. Ends up being a batfish! Looks like a bird. It actually walks!
Os completed several boat projects including autopilot.
Oh yeah - saw a baby dolphin today when we drove into anchorage. Worked on my dive also!
Monday 30th
Yesterday a weak cold front passed through, the wind piped-up out of the west / southwest, and the waves in the anchorage got really ugly! Pulled-up the hook and motored around the southern tip of Long Cay yesterday. I stood as lookout on the Spinnaker Pole while Elizabeth took the wheel. ( No, I don't trust GPS!) I anchored SOEL east of the south end of the island - a great spot for passing cold fronts!
Woke this morning at 0030 - again - and tried to write. C, from "Sunshine", calls at 0730 to say "moving back". I told him "I'll see ya later". . . finished my breakfast, one last cup of coffee, then started the diesel around 1100 ( when I could see the bottom) to move us back around. We avoid everything hazardous and anchor just north of K and C in a perfect spot. We ran the dinghy over to "Sunshine" for a quick visit around lunchtime, and they invite us over for dinner later. Cool.
The wind died and the water over the reef became absolutely flat! Lizzy and I motored around in the WalkerBay looking down 20 - 30 - 50 feet through the clear water to see fish on the bottom! It was so clear and so flat, you didn't need to get in the water! Of course, we did get in the water, and saw 3 turtles - 2 rays - 2 skates -and hundreds of colorful reef fish.
I spotted a school of Bar Jacks and swam back to the dinghy for the gun. After drifting patiently for about 15 minutes, another school circled into view. I sank to the bottom, picked the largest fish, (18" about 3 pounds) and fired off a perfect head shot. No struggle. No blood. The rest of the school actually kept swimming around me, but, I only wanted one. Back aboard SOEL, Elizabeth lightly pan-fried my fillets, we ate half and made ceviche with the other half. Good fish! I may go after more -
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Didn't do crap all day.
Ate biscuits for breakfast.
Read a "Patrick O'Brian" book.
Pasta for dinner.
Bored!
