June, 2009

Sunday, June 14th, 2009

I woke before 0500 and made coffee. Elizabeth came back to life around 0600 and began packing.

T-shirts, shorts, swimsuit, boots, towels, coffee, snacks, one ice chest, two mountain bikes, and all the extra junk two people might need during a cross country road trip. Of course we brought along the laptop and the SPOT tracker. The little VW wagon was packed only about half full. We hugged Mike and Emily goodbye and started driving west.

First stop - "The Shed" Bar-B-Q joint just north of I-10, at exit 57, (on Highway 57) in Ocean Springs, Mississippi. www.theshedbbq.com

We stumbled upon this unique restaurant quite by accident one day a few years ago. Ever since that first brisket sandwich, my travel plans forever allow for a relaxing snack at the funky little Bar-B-Q shack. The calendar says Buddy Guy will be performing in September. Today, Lizzy and I split one pulled pork sandwich, snapped a few photos and got back on the highway. Traffic was tolerable and we made it safely to Houma by 1830. Both Elizabeth's sisters adjusted their plans for the evening and made time to visit with us. Family is an extremely important ingredient in Louisiana living.

According to the car's onboard computer = 400 miles - 6 1/2 hours - average 60 mph.

Monday, June 15th, 2009

"There's no place like home..." Dorothy

The smell of coffee and breakfast sausage roused me. Don, Elizabeth's father, baked biscuits also!

During an earlier planning discussion (brainstorming session) we realized that our limited finances would require us to #1 - stay with friends as much as possible. #2 - Bring a tent and camp out in state parks. #3 stay in a cheap hotel 3 nights. max.

Before we left Florida, Mike said "Take my tent." I didn't listen. I thought we left a tent, backpacks and a big bag of bicycling gear, at E's parent's house in Houma. Instead of driving straight through to Houston, we would stop, just for one night, visit with family and repack the car in the morning with a 6 person tent. "It's not here." I confessed after unloading the whole closet. Apparently we stored it at my mother's house instead. So now we are off on our second "side trip" in as many days. Driving to Arnaudville, Louisiana to search through the barn for a 11 year old tent that very well may prove to be uninhabitable anyway. Doesn't matter. I'll get to visit with more family!

This is why I can never make any concrete plans - they always change.

Momma was very happy to see us and whipped up a good little lunch on short notice.

Turns out that the tent is fine. In fact, I found TWO nylon domes, plus two ThermaRest sleeping pads. Back on the highway, traffic was light and we made good time. I pulled into the VW dealership and tossed the attendant the keys while Elizabeth explained that the "check engine" light came on. The Guy slides behind the wheel, twists the key, then looks at us like we are absolute nuts. The "check engine" light was off. Typical.

We did manage a quick visit to our old marina / home and see some old friends. Some didn't change at all. Some I almost didn't recognize. But, all were genuinely glad to spend a little time with Eliz and I.

Spent the night at Cindy and Mark's house in League City, Texas.

Tuesday 16th

The thing I like about Cindy and Mark's house is all the books! I always find a dozen things to read.

Peter Nichols books on sailing. Works of fiction like the Barry Eisler or Patrick O' Brian series. To me it's a library of only the works that interest me. Like an ipod that plays only your favorite songs. Of course this makes it impossible for me to get a good nights rest. I'm usually awake half the evening speed-reading!

Lorenda picked us up for breakfast around 0800. (coffee and pancakes at IHOP) We tried unsuccessfully to bribe her into quitting her job and coming on this driving trip with us. She's too smart for that. She left us at the VW dealership and wished us well. We'll see her again soon...

We dropped off the little wagon because of the "check engine" light. After a quick diagnostic scan, we elected to correct about half of the issues. 4 hours and $900 later we finally get back on our way at 1:00PM. Wow, these Volkswagens are expensive! Just an additional Ignition key for the car costs $300! Next stop, get a trailer hitch installed for the bike rack. Finish time 3:15PM. Looks like we will not be driving very far today.

Elizabeth's phone rings. It's John K. ! A Twitter update gave away our position, and he was looking for us. John is partially responsible for introducing Elizabeth and I to each other some 12 years ago. Since then, many things have happened, many things have changed and we had much to talk about. We threw our bags down for an unexpected overnighter and did all the "catching up" as is possible in one evening. E & I have turned into boat bums, but John has a great job, lives very simple like us, and is a great father. John and I still have similar views of life in general, and the same tastes in music, books, bikes and food. We promised to visit more often.

825 miles so far. . . gotta long way to go.

Wednesday June 17th, 2009

Special treat this morning - Walton and Johnson !

Finally get outta Houston and start making some tracks. Tall buildings of glass and steel, miles of concrete... all slowly faded away.

Look ahead about 600 miles on the map and find Caprock State Park and Palo Duro State Park. Who knew there was a "Grand Canyon" in Texas? It's a 120 mile long, 800 foot deep, huge scar in the earth, second only to the "real" Grand Canyon in Arizona.

A couple-a-dozen miles outside of Fort Worth, I lost the cell signal. Briefly got some communication around Wichita Falls and Amarillo, then it was back to the stone age. (Little did I know, we would have no cellular signal for two days.) Nothing but prairie grass as far as you can see. Reminds us of the Gulf.

We pulled into the park and picked a quiet spot for the night. Elizabeth and I set up camp and cooked dinner, thinking it was about 6:30 - 7:00PM. It was NINE o'clock at night and the sun was just setting over the canyon rim! We started this road trip from the eastern edge of the Central time zone, where daylight fades around 8:00PM. After driving a thousand miles west, it feels like we may eventually catch up with the sun. Tomorrow we enter the Mountain time zone and gain an hour.

Thursday 18th

Up at 6:00AM. Community Coffee by 6:15! Yeeeaaaaa!

After studying the park map, we agreed on a short 4.5 mile trail loop to pedal the bikes around the canyon. It took us about an hour and a half to go only 4.5 miles! Later in the car, we laughed after realizing that when it was really hard, we both applied the "J.K. riding method" to our morning workout. John told us "I Pick a spot up ahead - and concentrate on getting there. Once I make it that far - I pick another spot - I get there. Pick a point - get to it. Over and over." How do you eat an elephant? one bite at a time.

Cleaned up, showered, and back on the road before noon. I dropped a can of refried black beans on the engine to warm while we drove to the next park. Palo Duro has a colorful history, and gorgeous scenery. A quick look around, snap a few photos like tourists, then... on to Colorado.

I retrieved the can of beans from under the hood, and we lunched on chips, salsa and hot black beans. Yum.

Crossed the state line at 6:00PM - which meant it was really 5:00PM - again. Around Dumas, TX, I raced a train! Of course we won, but it was still shocking to see a half a mile long string of four locomotives with more than a hundred box cars, screaming down the rails at over 60 miles per hour! Wow!

By the time we hit the town of Raton, New Mexico, the bike ride, the altitude, and the boredom did us in. we pulled off the highway, checked into a Super 8, called Pizza Hut, then sat in the tub and tried to scrub off the fatigue.

1,750 miles so far. Average 62 miles per hour. Car is averaging 24.6 mpg. Life is wonderful.

Friday, June 19th - 2009

Re-packed the car and headed north! Elizabeth drove - I got online and searched for accommodations.

Comfort Inns $139 per night. ouch! Super8, $99. Naw. Try something else. The State of Colorado Parks system requires that you make reservations 3 days ahead of time. . . oops! Drive into 2 state parks and both report no vacancy. I'm not so sure about the truthfulness of that. They have plenty of RV sites available, but no "walk-in" tent space? In Louisiana and Texas, I'm used to $7 per night state park fees. Here in Colorado, it's $34 per night and they are all full? Whatever. Let me share with you how E & O roll. I look at the worst possible scenario - $34 then subtract that number from whatever else I can find.

We found a funky little Lodge with $65 single rooms and grab two nights. If you subtract the park fee I would have paid, it really only cost $30 bucks more to NOT sleep in a tent, in the rain, in 52* temperatures! My logic rocks! ( Dat's a joke skippy)

Miss a turn, take the next left through a neighborhood, and end up in the middle of the Garden of the Gods park. I love getting lost. We take our time and hike around the park all day. It's breathtaking.

The park road is a one way, so, of course I can't go back the same way I got here. I turn right and get lost, again, and discover a local micro-brewery (a Bar) that rewards customers with discounted beer prices, if you show up by human power - on a bike or on foot. (i.e. not by car) Most of the interior came from recycled stuff. E & I peruse the beer menu to find the speciality of the house brew is named "Soul". Two please!

Saturday, June 20th - 2009

Drive to the local REI store as soon as they open (9 o'clock) and look around at the employees. Old guy - no. Old fat guy - negative. 89 pound girly - forget it. Ah-Ha! Blond haired college kid with a sunburned face, tattoo on left arm, fresh scab on right knee. That'll be my best source of information. I ask him, "Where do YOU go riding?" He unfolds a map and proudly shows us what to avoid, the hot spots where the locals ride, the best pizzeria in town and mentions a midnight ride through Garden of the Gods, tonight.

Elizabeth glanced over at me and asked," You wanna?"

Are you kidding me? Tell people later that there was this really neat night time ride, through the coolest park, in "Cyclist Central", but.. we didn't participate. Drive 2,000 miles to pass on a chance like this? I purchased lights for the bikes and signed us up.

On the way back to the Lodge, I get stuck in the right lane and am forced to turn off of the main highway into the historic/downtown area. "Hey, look! It's that Pizzeria!" I just love getting lost! ! ! A few blocks later, the local Farmers Market is in full gear at the downtown park. We walk the entire market and spot this old Hispanic fellow under a tent selling Tamales. The idle chatter around us quieted slightly when I began with "Buenos dias. Calliente pollo, por favor." I'll bet he don't get that too often.

Next stop was the Cliff Dwellings. These incredible Indians basically built an entire town inside a cave. Generation after generation lived here for 2,500 years, then around the year 1300ad, a 24 year long drought did them all in. No water = no life.

I ate Tamales, drank a beer, set an alarm clock and went to sleep about four in the afternoon. The temperature dropped dramatically, and at the start of the ride it was 52. Brrrrr. The course took us through the Garden of the Gods Park, around town, then again through half of the park to finish at the Visitors Center, where fluffy pancakes and scrambled eggs were waiting. The climbs were challenging and scores of people were walking their bikes uphill,but, Elizabeth rode the entire 22 mile route nonstop!

Every climb! You Go Girl!

Sunday 21st

Travel day.

A few hours after the bike ride, we decided to get on to Crested Butte. Pack the car. Check out. On the way outta town, Elizabeth spotted a cool Bar-B-Q joint and we split a Buffalo Burger for lunch. The little VW did just fine on the drive through the mountains. The cell phones lost the signal just outside Colorado Springs. We drove into the cute little town of Crested Butte just before dark and turned into the first parking lot on the left. Old Town Inn. The couple running the Inn just bought a sailboat and they were very interested in our travels. We shared stories and visited till late in the evening.

Monday June 22nd - 2009

Breakfast at the Inn was from 6:30 till 9:30. We made our way down around 7:15 and chatted with Michael (the Inn keeper) till after 10:00. He said he was gettin' a little tired of the snow and wanted to get out on a boat. I told him I was getting tired of boats and wanted to see the mountains. "We should just swap!" I suggested. "You guys go get on my boat, I'll run the Inn." He's thinking about it.

Elizabeth and I checked out and went for a walk. This town is almost too pretty to be real. The houses look like little cottages or lodges, with steep roofs and Christmas tree looking pines in the front yard.

We turned on Seventh street and there was Jane, stacking firewood. So good to see them again! We grabbed a pizza then drove up the mountain to Toms property in Irwin, Colorado. 30 unspoiled acres in the Rockies. It's so beautiful!

Tuesday 23rd

Tom has a little remodeling job to finish, so I ask if I can help. It's been a long time since I took out a door and replaced it with a window, but, I didn't screw it up too bad. After lunch the girls went out for a bike ride and the guys built a deck on the second floor of the little apartment. Thomas is quite an industrious fellow. He worked hard, then fell asleep just after dark, leaving me all alone to sit in the Hot Tub with Elizabeth and Jane.

It's a tough job, but somebody had to do it.

Wednesday June 24th - 2009

Pulled the ski boat to a lake Tom called "Blue Mesa." He tells me it's the largest body of water in Colorado. A section of river that has been dammed to create a 10 mile long reservoir.

A couple of hundred cyclist are heading east on the road next to the lake. On the way home, while we are stopped at a traffic signal the truck is surrounded by riders. I roll down the window and ask them, how far, where they started from, what time ya started, where ya going... things like that. Turns out, it is a 420 mile tour of Colorado. In seven days! Sounds like fun.

The "Fat Tire Festival" is happening in town for four days. . . and now this road ride is rolling to town also. Last Saturday it was a motorcycle rally. Wow! This place is busy!

After lunch, Elizabeth and I ride our mountain bikes to the "Upper Loop" and "Lower Loop" trails. Way cool! I blew out my rear brake pads on the last downhill into town. Perfect timing. Fun single track riding! It's gonna be hard to leave this place.

Jane wanted to show us her town's night life, so, after I barbeque chicken and brats for dinner, she takes us out "bar hopping" till after midnight. We walked what they call the "Bar-muda Triangle". Three of the most popular hangouts in the old downtown area. Patrons stroll back and forth from bar to bar, constantly changing the mix of locals and tourists. One place was full of bike riders, another had a bluegrass band playing. I was the designated chaperon, so, I stuck to drinking water all night, but it was still one hell of a fun evening.

Thursday, June 25th - 2009

Crested Butte real estate is quite remarkable. This morning we looked around and saw dozens of examples of tremendously over-inflated property prices. Ten times the realistic price! A small shack, 800 square feet of living area, built 80 years ago and falling apart, sitting on an average size lot, with a selling price of $495,000! That house would sell for $50K anywhere else. Or a nicer, bigger house, a few years old, 1,500 square feet - $1,250,000! I just saw a house like that 2 weeks ago for $130,000 in Florida.

After the sticker shock wore off, I changed my burnt brake pads and we were off riding another trail. Living at sea level for so long has really got my lungs hurting at this altitude. I run out of oxygen long before my legs can get a workout. Seriously, I can't even warm-up! Today we are on Snodgrass Trail and it is absolutely beautiful! A single track path winding through groves of Aspens. Right now the wildflowers are in bloom and the slopes are splashed with knee deep waves of purple and yellow. I will never forget the feeling of rolling through the flowered fields, ducking into the shade of the trees and hearing Jane's hearty laughter echo in the forest.

This is really a special place and Elizabeth and I are so glad we experienced it. Tom and Jane are wonderful to put us up for so long and we have had a great time, but sadly, we decide to leave tomorrow.

Friday 26th On tha road again....

We hugged Tom and Jane goodbye and hit the highway at 7:00 am (mtn). The temperature was a chilly 51. Conversation in the car was centered around how much fun we had these last 2 weeks.

The little VW climbed Buffalo Pass (10,000 feet) and Raton Pass (7,000 feet) with style and by the time we hit the Texas State Line it was a steamy 101 degrees! Whew! Fifty degree change in about 5 hours.

Elizabeth and I took turns driving and we made it all the way to Wichita Falls, TX in one loooong day. 12 hours / 700 miles. So far the car has racked up nearly 3,000 miles. Average speed of 49 mph. Fuel consumption = 25mpg. Time in the car. . . a whopping 60 hours!

We treat ourselves to Texas Barbeque, Shiner beer and a Hotel room.

Can't wait to see Sarah!

Saturday, June 27th - 2009

"What am I ... A freakin Nostradamus?" - Walton and Johnson

"When ya tyin on a ladder, try to make a knot." - Billy Ed Hatfield.

Can't sleep. Up at 0400. Make coffee at 0530. Making tracks by 0630. Traffic lite and the sunrise was beautiful.

Four days ago when I spoke to Madeline, (Sarah's Mom) I informed her that we would leave a day early to ensure we would make it to pick up Sarah on Sunday. "Just in case we have car trouble," I added. How did I know?

At 9:20 AM I was driving east on Interstate 20 in Dallas, TX, mile 479 at 70 miles per hour, heavy traffic, with a car on either side of me, stretched across the five lane wide highway. The brake lights of the truck ahead of me lit up, but he didn't slow and he didn't swerve. Suddenly an aluminum ladder appeared from underneath the truck. I couldn't change lanes and I couldn't stop from 70 to zero in 100 feet, so just I lifted my foot off the brake pedal, turned the wheel, and positioned the car to straddle the ladder, dead center, with a tire on either side. I held my breath and hoped we had enough ground clearance.

We didn't.

The ladder banged the bottom of the VW really hard. A quick look in the rear view mirror showed a white SUV try to dodge the debris, then spin around in circles and this black 4 door Mercedes had a bead on him. I couldn't worry about those guys crashing. I immediately pulled over and surveyed my undercarriage. Brown liquid dripping is not good. I slid back in the drivers seat, exhaled a long sigh, announced "We're done" and removed the ignition key. E called our insurance carrier to report the unavoidable situation. I walked back up the freeway, to remove the ladder from the traffic lanes, and snapped a few photo's. We waited 3 hours for a tow truck! That wasn't Progressive's fault. The TowTruck driver tells them one time, ( 15 minutes) then runs another errand and eats lunch before coming pick us up. Then, the bastard tried to charge us $38. Elizabeth told him she only had $20. He took one look at my pissed off face and accepted it.

1:00 O'clock at the Park City Volkswagen dealership we met David Elsea. David has been in the car game for almost 30 years. We sat down and told him our tale. I admitted that I didn't expect any repairs till Monday. He just smiled and said: "Hey, don't count me out yet. Let me see what I can do." (The mechanic went to get the car with a motorized "car pusher". No. . . they didn't drive it without oil in the engine. These guys are way smarter than the average grease monkey!) 10 minutes later he asked us to come see the damage for ourselves. Not only was the oil pan leaking, but, the transmission oil pan was punctured too! I poked around under the car with the guy for a few minutes looking for any hidden damage. Nothing further. Miraculously, the plastic fuel tank was spared. That could have been disastrous. Even fatal.

David tells me they actually have located the parts, have a mechanic to work on the car and can have us back on our way before 5:00PM! "Bullshit!" I offend him. (I think that made him prove me wrong!)

Progressive Insurance requires an "Adjuster" be sent out to approve the claim. "Send him right now!" E exclaims. "They don't work on weekends." the phone reports. Well why the hell not? People never wreck on weekends? "Someone can look at the car on TUESDAY!" 4 days from today? It could be repaired in less than 4 hours! Elizabeth reminds the "phone monkey" that if I wouldn't have been savvy enough to pull over to look, and minimize the unavoidable damage, Progressive would be paying for a ruined engine and transmission, in other words - a total loss. Over $7,000. "and you're giving me friction over $1500? I saved you 6 grand!" Elizabeth asked to speak with a supervisor. That's when they put us on hold.

When they reconnected, she delivered the choices. #1 You can pay for the repairs, TODAY. #2 Since we are 800 miles from home, you can provide us with either a rental car, four days in a hotel, or both. #3 you will deal with my Attorney. After e-mailing photographs, Progressive Insurance redeemed themselves by breaking the standard protocol and agreed to pay for immediate repairs and get us back on our way. By the time we were finished arguing with the Insurance guy, David from Park City Volkswagen was giving me the keys and pointing to our quickly repaired, shining little wagon. Yep, they even gave it a bath! We were back on our way before 4:00 o'clock! The wait for assistance on the side of the road was longer than the wait for the actual repairs. E & I both can't possibly say enough about Volkswagen, the Dealer network, and the outstanding customer service we have experienced in the last two weeks.

Sunday June 28th - 2009

On the way from Shreveport to Arnaudville,LA one must pass through the town of Alexandria. Alex just happens to have about 50 miles of mountain bike trails in the Kisatchie National Forest. Elizabeth and I were over three hours early to meet Sarah, so, of course we turned right on Hwy 28. That's just how we live, every day. What do you feel like doing today? Think before you answer... then do it.

The trail we chose is only 8.5 miles long, but it still took us 2 hours! Completely different from the trails in Colorado. Loose sand covered with pine needles, 101* degree temperature and 95% humidity. I had not been to the Lake Kincade in about 15 years. It was a great workout and I was so happy to be riding some old familiar trails.

Sarah gave me a big hug when she first saw us and that filled my smiling, but heavy heart. I've been gone a long time. We haven't seen each other since New Years. 6 months! It is not easy. I'm not having much success in expressing my feelings today. . .

Monday, 29th

Gramma and Sarah fixed their famous homemade Biscuits this morning. I burned bacon and sausage and eggs. Elizabeth made good strong coffee.

100 degrees by 10:00 AM ! Wow! Not a cloud in sight. No breeze. 90% humidity. Damn hot!

To date the car has accumulated 3,600 miles - average 50 MPH - 72 hours - 25 MPG.

As luck would have it, we will be driving right past "The Shed Barbeque and Blues Joint" just about lunch time. Imagine that?

Tuesday, 30th

I never "missed" my boat while we were gone, but I sure am glad to be back. SOEL is still floating. Still dry. Still smells good when you slide the hatch open. I slept very well last night. Making coffee this morning was quite enjoyable. This "mountain" road trip seems to have done me some good.

Too soon to tell, but I'll keep you posted.